This Farmhouse Sofa Table has made a great addition to our living room!
It’s perfect for displaying home decor, or you can lighten up a room by using it as a ledge for lamps to sit on.
The bottom shelf is large enough to hold big book baskets (that’s what we use it for!), or if your guests aren’t interested in using the throw cushions on your couch, you can tuck them away in here!
The free Farmhouse Sofa Table plan is at the bottom of the page so you can make one, too.
This project can be done for less than $40 with pretty basic tools.
Compare that to a (much less sturdy 😉 ) one like this for over $100!
Have to admit, before my wife asked me to make her a sofa table, I didn’t even know what they were! Turns out it isn’t anything too complicated.
According to Overstock.ca, the general idea is that it can sit between a sofa and the wall if there’s a vent in the floor and you don’t want the sofa blocking airflow; or if you have electrical outlets you want access behind the sofa, it’s good for that too.
Or, you can use it as a front entry console table. In our house, it doubles as a staging area for my wife’s food pictures too! She’s an amazing food blogger, as you well know. Check out her THM recipes here.
This was also my first time using a grey stain and I’m really happy with how it turned out. Need to do more of that!
Start by cutting all the pieces to size. Cut list:
2 pcs 2'x8"x45" (For the Top)
2 pcs 2"x6"x38" (For the Shelf)
4 pcs 2"x4"x28 ½" (For the Legs)
2 pcs 2"x4"x36"
4 pcs 2"x4"x9 ⅜"
2 pcs 1"x3"x18 ⅞" (for the long piece in the X)
4 pcs 1"x3"x10" (for the short pieces in the X)
Add 2 pocket holes to each of the 4 pcs 2"x4"x9 ⅜ " pieces like this:
This is the Pocket Hole Jig I use: https://amzn.to/2XKJxCR
NOTE: It depends which pocket hole jig you're using so just set it up as per the instructions
Start assembling the legs. You will need these pieces:
4 pcs 2"x4"x28 ½"
4 pcs 2"x4"x9 ⅜"
a) On one of the long 1 ½" sides of the 9 ⅜" pcs, mark the center on the edges like this: b) On the 28 ½" pcs, mark the center near the edge like this:
Now line up the two center lines like this:
Use 2 ½" pocket hole screws to fasten the 9 ⅜" piece to the 28 ½" piece. Do the same thing with 1 more 9 ⅜" piece to another 28 ½" piece.
Make a center mark 7" up the inside of the 2 28 ½" pieces:
Line up a 9 ⅜" piece with pocket holes facing down; Use 2" pocket hole screws to fasten the 9 ⅜" piece to the 28 ½" piece. Do the same thing with 1 more 9 ⅜" piece to another 28 ½" piece.
Now, you should have 2 pieces that look like this:
Using the pocket holes again, screw on the other 28 ½" pieces to complete this portion of the legs:
Now we're going to do the "X" shaped portion of the table:
This part gets a bit tricky because the dimensions of everything aren't perfect. I found that it was best to do it this way:
On the 2 pcs of 1"x3"x18 ⅞", cut a 21° angle on each end, being sure not to cut anything off the length. Basically we want to cut off these sections of the board:
It should be too big, but this allows you to get a pretty close fit so you can mark how much more you need to cut off. Cut off a bit more (you might have to do this a couple times to get an exact fit, I know I did!) but just be sure each time to take a little less off than you think you need so you can test it and trim it again if need be until it fits exactly.
Once you have a perfect fit with one piece, using light markings, note which way it fits in, and which set of legs it goes with since the other side might not be exactly the same. Lumber isn't perfect!
Then, repeat for the other side.
Now, add pocket holes like this:
This might make it easier to see where I mean:
NOTE: Again, consult the manual with your pocket jig to ensure you are locating the holes correctly.
For the small pieces of the X, again some custom fitting is required (depending on how fussy you want to be :D)
Take the 4 pcs of 1"x3" that are 10" and cut a 21° angle on one end only. Then, fit each piece making sure to mark them for which position they go in (right side, top piece, for example).